Jaisalmer was an important node in the overland silk route and well-connected to the world at the time of Marco Polo. Built from the local yellow sandstone that turns to tawny gold in the evening sunlight, its fortress dominates the landscape, rising with crenellated walls several hundred feet above the surrounding plain. From the 12th century, it was a flourishing trade post for nearly 700 years. Camel trains brought Damascene swords, Afghani carpets from Herat, Persian wines from Shiraz, and “green-eyed Circassian beauties headed for the harems of Hindustan.” The last denominated may be a catch-all term for women from the trans-Caucasus region of Eurasia. The most famous Circassian of all is probably Roxolana who, as Hurrem Sultan, rose from slave to concubine to favourite wife  of Suleiman the Magnificent (1520-1566) and ultimately, one of the most powerful figures in his court. Roxolana was actually of Ukrainian or Ruthenian descent, but the wife she ousted from Suleiman’s favour, the beautiful Gulbehar, was undoubtedly Circassian. Contrary to legend, Marco Polo did not visit Jaisalmer. Perhaps he should have. Today, as it did then, Jaisalmer gleams like a golden mirage at the edge of the Thar desert. Approaching the city from the north-east, from the direction of Bikaner, there is endless sunlight and more golden sand. Passing Pokran, the site of India’s first nuclear test in 1974, there is an array of hope for the future, rows of photovoltaic cells that are part of a 40 MW plant set up in 2012 to provide power to Rajasthan state. NOTE: Click on images below for larger view.

UNESCO World Heritage site. Golden city on a hill

Magnificently carved stonework on every street and corner

There is something easy-going about the pace of life in the city, unusual in that it is the first inhabited monument in the world to have been declared a World Heritage site in 2013. Around 450 families reside in the fort complex and some of their homes have been converted into hotels, which puts additional strain on the centuries old infrastructure that was designed for a royal household and a few hundred retainers. After a walk around the city lasting several hours, we were totally captivated by the relaxed atmosphere in the city and found a possible explanation when our guide offered us a choice of masala chai or a glass of milk or tea laced with bhang. When asked if it was legal, he turned and pointed to a sign down the street. The offer was tempting, but deterred by the 40-degree heat, I regretfully declined.

Street legal bhang in Jaisalmer

Bhang has been used since Vedic times in India and both Hindu sadhus and Muslim Sufis use it to heighten their spiritual ecstasy. Bhang is most commonly made by grinding cannabis leaves and adding a mixture of milk, ghee and spices. Sometimes ground almonds and sugar are added to the milk and this drink is called “thandai.”

The handicrafts within were far finer than the orthography

Easy living: Stairway to nowhere

There was a temporary hiatus in writing activity for more than four hours yesterday because I noticed a hornet building a nest just outside my balcony door. I don’t know much about hornets but this one was large and looked extremely aggressive. Looking up the internet, I found articles about Asian Giant Hornets and their painful (to potentially lethal) venom. The first headline said: Giant hornets kill 42 in China (this was apparently in Shaanxi province in 2013). Deciding that tolerance of nature and the wild stops under my own roof, I asked my landlord for help. He came along and demolished the nest with a broom handle when the wasp was off hunting for more building material. We then poured vinegar over the site hoping to throw the hornet off the scent

Note: this method worked because the hornet was just beginning to build. Definitely not recommended for a larger nest. Get professional help if you have a problem. The hornet returned ten minutes later and began building a second nest a few meters away from the site of the demolition. Off it flew to collect more hornet bricks or clay or whatever for its new home. I demolished this one too, vacuumed the remains and poured vinegar again to throw it off the scent.

Looking for its demolished nest

The spot outside the balcony door was obviously well suited because it returned, searched for a few minutes, then began to build a third time. Remembering that firefighters sometimes use a blanket of foam, I covered the nest with a mound of a thick cleaning fluid and shut the doors. The two cats obviously knew that the insect was potentially lethal. They watched with obvious respect through the glass doors as it buzzed about furiously outside before flying off to find a more suitable building site.

Not again!

Ah, the joys of living on a sub-tropical island paradise! As in the Bible, there are snakes in this paradise too. According to a book on the local flora and fauna, cobras, vipers, banded kraits and Burmese pythons are to be found here. However, snakes are shy creatures and in the past year of extensive hikes through the many trails on this island, I’ve only once glimpsed a vanishing tail at dusk. However, I’ve been repeatedly told that small animals, especially cats and dogs are at risk from the Burmese pythons.

Visiting Mughal Emperor Humayun’s tomb in Delhi, I was surprised to see the six-pointed star of David adorn the entrance to the West gateway. The tomb was built by Humayun’s son, Akbar the Great, in memory of his father six years after the latter’s death. Akbar was known to be a wise ruler who was religiously tolerant and looked on all faiths as equally valid interpretations of the same divinity. I assumed that the stars above the tomb were an early expression of mutual Jewish-Muslim tolerance and understanding. The stone tablet outside the gate dispels this notion (see the second photograph below). 

Wikipedia says that the star became a symbol of Jewish communities only during the 19th century and the symbol was inherited from medieval Arabic literature by Kabbalists for use in talismanic protective amulets.

The conflict between Arabs and Israelis has lasted more than 2000 years (see my earlier post entitled History in 1000 words: The Israeli -Palestinian conflict at https://aviott.org/2012/12/06/history-in-1000-words-the-israeli-palestinian-conflict-2/

Far too long! The world needs more Akbars and Yitzhak Rabins with the courage to make peace and perhaps even die for it.

Lamma Island’s many restaurants, food stalls and stores offer a variety of cuisines, from Chinese to Fish & Chips to Continental. The stores that cater to this small population of 6,000 (twice that on weekends) stock mostly everything from Austrian jams (Darbo naturrein!), to Marmite. One of the few things that have been missing till now were Hungarian Chimney Cakes (Kürtőskalács in Hungarian).

Fortunately, this sad state of affairs has been remedied by Roland who bakes them fresh every morning at the Prime Bar, next to where Tony dispenses his excellent offerings of soul-saving South American coffee as people rush to catch the morning ferries to work. The crisp rolls are mildly sweet and come with a choice of toppings including cinammon and chopped walnut. Both coffee and rolls are highly recommended.

Yung Shue Wan Main street, from 7 to 11 am.

Why is six afraid of seven?

Because seven ate nine.

Macau Highrise overlooks Venetian cityscape.

Heirs to Camillo Agrippa, fencing master, Italy, 1590-1650. Author of “Trattato di Scienza d’Arme.”